Photography Equipment Kuwait

Primary exposure settings are the ones that you will use i-camera when you capture an image. They incorporate the main settings of ISO, aperture, shutter speed, exposure compensation, exposure bracketing Highlight jone priority (Canon), and Active D-lighting (Nikon) or Auto Lighting Optimizer (Canon), or similar settings from other manufacturers. They can also include anything else that affects the exposure, the dynamic range, or the color balance.

It is worth noting that after dialing in any adjustment to the dynamic range through settings that affect the balance between highlight and shadow areas (such as Active D-Lighting or Auto Lighting Optimizer), the aperture and shutter speed combination will sometimes need further adjustment before capturing an image.

Secondary exposure corre2ction decribes any exposure correction made to an image after it has been captured Essentially, secondary exposure corrections can take place either in-camera (a facility that is slowly becoming more widespread) or on the computer after downloading your captured images. At the present time, the vast majority of photographers afre still limited to making secondary exposure corrections via a computer.

Post-processing is a term commonly used to describe post – capture adjustments, which may incorporate exposure adjustment in addition to other changes to an image that do not fall into the category of exposure; the post – capture application of digital filters, for example. The most important factor determining which secondary exposure corrections are available is whether you shoot JPEG or RAW files, with RAW files providing a greater range of options.

Full Auto:

Full Auto – or intelligent Auto on Panasonic cameras – is probably the shooting mode that is most commonly used by begninners, and it is likely to be one of several automatic modes on your camera. The term full auto has been used to differentiate this mode from other partially automatic modes such as Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or any one of the various scene modes.

Set to Full Auto (commonly marked as A), the camera will make all your decisions for you the camera will make all your decisions for you with regard to the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. It is also likely to set the file quality (to JPEG) and a range of other options-almost everything except focus. It is usually the case that the user cannot override many, if any, of these settings, but Full Auto is still capable of delivering perfect images provided there aren’t any awkard lighting challenges: the main thing you are giving up is control, not quality. Well-lit, evenly toned scenes should turn out fine. When they don’t, it is time to start learning again.

Program:

Program mode offers a little more control than Full Auto and is often the next step on the learning curve for beginners. In this mode, the camera’s meter determines the exposure and suggests a combination of aperture and shutter speed. This parining can be changed using what is sometimes referred to as program shift, but the overall exposure will remain the same. For example, if the camera suggests an exposure of 1/500 sec. at f/8 this can be changed to any equivalent exposure such as 1/1000 sec. at f/5.6, 1/250 sec. at f/11, and so on.

This allows the user to select a suitable aperture or shutter speed, while still making sure that the overall exposure renders a satisfactory result without the confusion of changing shooting modes. This kind of thinking is the precursor to experimenting with Aperture priority or Shutter Prionity.

A couple of years ago, Canon introduced a new shooting mode in the form of Creative Auto, which is similar to Program but with a low – tech approach to the user interface. A new silder control is incorporated into the menu screen (shown above), which allows the user to make conscious decisions about how blurred or sharp the background needs to be. The slider is actually controlling the aperture (and therefore the depth of field), but without reference to any of the technical terminology. The shutter speed is set automatically.

Aperture priority:

When you want to have complete control over the aperture, this is the mode to use. For example, you may want to use a wide aperture for a very restricted depth of field, blurring the background behind the main subject. Alternatively, you may want to use a smallj aperture to provide a greater depth of fieljd, so the foreground, middle distance, and far distance are all in focus. Having selected the aperture, the camera will determine an appropriate shutter speed according to the meter reading. The difference between this and the more automated modes is that the user retains control over a wider range of settings.

Shutter Priority:

This works just like Aperture priority, except that the photographer sets the desired shutter speed. This may be because you want a fast shutter speed to freeze movement in a fastmoving subject, or it could be that you want to deliberately blur the motion in an image by using a show shutter speed, such as when photographing a waterfall. In both situations, the camera chooses the appropriate aperture.

Manual in Manual mode the user has to set both the aperture and the shutter speed independently of one another. If the selected combination does not match the exposure reading suggested by the camera’s meter, there will be a mechanism for indicating that overexposure or underexposure is likely- Howeverr, it is highly likely that the user has already determined that it is the meter reading that is inappropriate.

The terms primary and secondary exposure are not standard terminology, but they have been used here to separate the adjustments made in-camera at the time of shooting from post-capture corrections.